Markham Vineyards
One of Napa Valley’s most consistent producers of good, consumer-oriented wines at reasonable prices is Markham Vineyards just north of St. Helena.

The winery was originally founded in 1874 by Jean Laurent, and the old stone building he built in 1879 still forms the heart of the existing structure of today. He died in 1890 and the winery had many owners until Bruce Markham from Inglenook came along.

Markham bought what’s now its Yountville vineyard in 1975, the Calistoga vineyard in 1976, and the old Laurent Winery itself in 1977 and the Oak Knoll vineyard in 1978. With almost 225 planted acres and a winery, Bruce Markham founded Markham Vineyards in 1978 and the old Laurent Winery was reborn. He sold it in 1988 to the present owners, the Japanese Mercian Corporation and its now owns 350 acres of vines. It purchases the crop from another 200 more acres. Interestingly, the winery buys grapes from the founder’s grandson, who is 90 years old.

Industry veteran Bryan Del Bondio, who joined the winery in 1977, is president.

The wine are made by winemaker Kimberlee Jackson-Nicholls, who joined the winery as enologist or wine scientist in 1993. After four years of hands-on experience in the vineyards and in the winery, she was promoted to Associate Winemaker in 1997.

Kim was appointed winemaker in 2001 and now oversees winemaking at Markham Vineyards and its two affiliates, value producer Glass Mountain Quarry and tiny (4500 cases) ultra-premium La Jota Vineyard Company. The total production is more than 300,000 cases, 160,000 in Markham-labeled wine.

Kim seems to have her palate perfectly attuned to the consumer of California wines. “I prefer young, juicy wines,” she says. “I have a California palate.”

Among the wine, like an increasing number of wineries, Markham uses large upright oak tanks to ferment Sauvignon Blanc (30,000 cases) , which spend 4 months in them. “We want some aging in oak, but not for it to be overpowering,” she says. It bought many of the tanks from Silver Oak; the youngest is 10 years old. The current Sauvignon contains 20 percent Musqué Chardonnay and 14 percent Semillon. It’s fruity and melony, not herbaceous like trendy New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs.

By contrast, the Chardonnay (30,000 cases), which comes from cool Yountville and Napa, is 100 percent barrel fermented and eight months in barrels. It’s rich and buttery in the most popular style. Forty percent undergoes malolactic fermentation. About 70 percent of the Chardonnay is pressed as whole clusters to reduce tannins. Kim admits that the 30 percent new oak formerly used was a little over the top, and she’s using a little less in newer wines. “It’s good by the glass, not so much with food.”

Twenty-two percent of the Chardonnay grapes used are the floral Musqué clone, which contributes delicious aromas to the wine.

Markham’s valley floor wines are very fruity, while its mountain La Jota aren’t. “I can make very different styles,” notes Kim. The Markham valley floor reds spend 8 to 12 days on their skins to promote fruitiness, but they’d be dulled by long maceration. La Jota, by contrast, needs long maceration.

Merlot is the winery’s flagship wine and its biggest production, with about 65,000 cases, and its best-known wine. It gets grapes from 24 separate vineyards, which Kim with her fine palate, says is part of the winery’s strength. “Blending is our forte at Markham.”

The 2000 Merlot has a little green tea character rather than the typical cherry pie, she says. It contains a little Cabernet Sauvignon (10 percent) and Cabernet Franc (2 percent). It spends 14 months in barrel.

Most of the Cabernet Sauvignon (25,000 cases) comes from two distinctive sites, a vineyard between Dominus and Screaming Eagle and Opus One in Yountville, plus the northernmost vineyard in Napa Valley at the headwaters of the Napa River. There’s a little Cab Franc in the Sauvignon, but Markham got its first crop of Petit Verdot in 2002, and it will be a part of future blends.

If you visit the winery, you can try some of the winery’s excellent Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, which aren’t generally distributed. The PS is the winery’s only single-vineyard wine, coming from a dry farmed (unirrigated) vineyard.

Markham Vineyards is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Current releases are available for tasting: White varietals cost $3 per person and reds $5. It’s located at 2812 St. Helena Hwy, North of St. Helena at Deer Park Road. (707) 963-5292.

Domaine Chandon Anniversary Celebration
I have to admit it. I was curious when Domaine Chandon announced that it was serving a 30-course dinner in honor of its 30th anniversary.

The fine restaurant at Chandon invited all its past chefs back to help, though the most famous, Philippe Jeanty was too busy with his Bistro Jeanty in Yountville, his Jeanty at Jack’s in San Francisco and getting ready to open his Pére Jeanty Provençal restaurant in Yountville. The others, including current chef Eric Torralba, did just fine, however.

It was a bit of a relief to find that many of the 30 courses were just bites, however. I’ve already had to buy one bigger tuxedo since I moved to Napa Valley, and didn’t want to get another.

The first nine ‘courses’ were walking-around appetizers, all delightful, and four others were served at stations, each by a different chef. All were accompanied by a special Tri Decade blend of Domaine Chandon sparkling wine, though sadly winemaker Wayne Donaldson was called home to Australia when his father was killed in a car accident. Former winemaker Dawnine Dyer kindly filled in for him.

Then we sat, and were served ten small courses, each prepared by a different chef, and matched by sparkling and still Chandon wine, as well as Simi Cabernet Sauvignon, a legacy from the time when Simi was owned by Chandon.

I must admit that I faded toward the end, hardly appreciating the final courses, and skipping dessert, which was served with Chandon brandy as well as its dessert sparkling wine, Riche.

It was a meal to remember, a fitting celebration for a winery that has had immense impact on the American wine business. Though it’s adding fine still wines, Chandon continues to make some of the best sparkling wines in America.

Happy Anniversary!

GALA DINNER MENU
Featuring signature dishes from past and present chefs
Eric Torralba, Robert Curry, Bob Hurley, Cat Stamenov and Udo Nechutnys
Paired with unique wines blended by Wayne Donaldson

RECEPTION
Apple Blini with Ossetra Caviar
Morel Cream En ‘Pipette’
Dungeness Crab and Meyer Lemon Mousseline on a ‘Corkscrew’
Maine Lobster with Spicy Yam and Tangerine
Sonoma Foie Gras Terrine on Brioche
Artichoke Fritter Cone with Aioli
White Grape Gazpacho with Toasted Almonds
Campari Melon Cube and Prosciutto di Parma
Onion Tan with Crayfish and Black Olives

STATIONS
Pancetta Wrapped Quail Breast with Warm Cabbage Slaw
Three Chefs’ Interpretations of Oysters on the Half Shell
Organic Beet ‘Implosion’ with Beet Foam
House Cured Sardine Tian with Provençal Flavors

SEATED TASTING MENU
Chandon Tri-Decade Blend
Poached Oyster with Chandon Sabayon and Caviar Tuile --Eric Torralba
Corn Soup with Spring Pea Coulis and Sprout Salad – Bob Hurley
Poached Lobster Salad on Brioche with Avocado and Orange-Vanilla Vinaigrette -- Robert Curry

2001 Domaine Chandon Chardonnay, Carneros
Scallop Wellington with Black Truffle Emulsion -- Cal Stamenov
Sea Bass ‘Viennoise’ with Orange Beurre Blanc -- Eric Torralba

2001 Domaine Chandon ‘Coyote Hill’ Pinot Meunier, Carneros
Foie Gras ‘Bonbons’ and Cassis Cream -- Eric Torralba
Spiced Paine Farm Squab with Wild Mushrooms and Pinot Meunier Reduction -- Robert Curry

2000 Domaine Chandon ‘Block 105’ Pinot Noir, Carneros
Stuffed Rabbit Loin with Herb Spätzle and Rosemary Jus -- Bob Hurley

1995 Simi ‘Collector’s Series’ Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Grilled Lamb Ribeye with Lamb Sweetbreads, Chanterelles, Salsify and Thyme Essence -- Cal Stamenov
Turnip Tart Tatin with Camembert and Walnut-Mizuna Salad -- Robert Curry

SWEETS
Hazelnut Marjolaine
‘Deconstructed’ Cheesecake
Walnut Dacquiose with Apricot Coulis
Bittersweet Chocolate Tart with Poached Pear Sauce
Bob’s Mother’s Strawberry Shortcake
Crème Brulée with Tahitian Vanilla and Brandied Cherries Mignardises

Contact Paul: paul@ilovenapa.com