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Brookdale Vineyards: This 91-point Cab is a Poster Child for SUPPLE.

Brookdale Vineyards It tastes like a brilliantly made Merlot, has that rich, lush quality and dark cherry rapture that is often a hallmark of Merlot. But this elegant, supple wine is 100 percent Cab.

And here's why the Brookdale 2000 Cab is so alluring; because vintner Mike Seitz picked between a ton and two tons of fruit off five different vineyards that belonged to his clients in Stag's Leap District, Rutherford, Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain and in Yountville. In essence, Mike cherry-picked the vineyards for their best fruit.

Mike,the 34-year-old wiz kid wineman behind Brookdale Vineyards, died tragically in a vineyard accident in September 2003. He had named the winery for the horse farm in Lexington, KY, where his dad grew up and which his uncle owns today. If you look closely, you'll even see a tiny horse neatly woven into the design on the label. But few wine lovers are going to keep a bottle around long enough to devote to label gazing; this wine is going to bolt off the shelf, or out of the cellar, like a proverbial two-year-old filly out of the gate.

This is a wine to enjoy NOW, even though it will mature gracefully.

Mike’s wife Kristi and her sister Gina and a friend, Bonnie Mott, operate one of the only food concessions on the Silverado Trail, the Soda Canyon Store. This is a deli, a wine bar, an espresso bar, a grocery store, a lunch outlet, but most of all, it's THE place to hang out and meet well respected winemakers and suntanned vineyard managers. The place is quieter now, sadder now, without Mike’s big grinning face making the rounds, but Kristi and her partners have kept the store on keel.

Mike was originally from New Jersey and when we joked, saying, "oh, you're from Soprano-land," he rebutted without losing a beat: "you're not kidding. My brother was actually born in the house which they use as a beach house in Long Branch in the Sopranos." Mike started out with a business degree and moved to San Francisco to work in the financial district. But he soon found himself longing for rootstocks instead of industrial stocks, so he enrolled at UC Davis for an agriculture degree.

Upon graduation, Mike worked with Jack Neal's vineyard management firm for three years, then decided to branch out on his own, creating Brookdale Vineyard Management.

2000 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
A gorgeous, voluptuous, elegant wine. The kind of wine tasters are reluctant to spit out. You want to "rent" it for even a short while. Lots of black cherry on the nose; even more on the first sip. You'd swear there is a mother lode of Merlot in this blend, but this is 100 percent cab from five different single vineyards in Napa Valley, including parcels in Stag's Leap, Rutherford, Howell Mountain, Yountville and Atlas Peak.

Perhaps the most original aspect of this wine is that it is truly "refreshing." You sip… and you want to go back for more immediately. The wine is not hot, is not alcoholic. It is beautiful, balanced and extremely food-friendly.

"Supple" comes to mind on the attack, on the middle palate and on the finish. Only $48 in neighborhood Napa Valley retail stores. $48 a bottle.

ilovenapa.com Rating:
91
$48
 

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